Zagreb trip planner
The scruffy, but interesting, capital of Croatia
Most folks arrive in Croatia via Zagreb (www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr). Croatia's dingy capital doesn't invite lingering, but if train schedules strand you overnight, take time to relax at a café amidst decaying Viennese Beaux Arts buildings, tour the many museums, and watch the faithful in the Cathedral shuffle on their knees around the glass tomb of beloved World War II-era Archbishop Stepinac.
Be sure you take the funicular up onto Gradec, a leafy hilltop district of baroque buildings, to see the modern sculptures in Ivan Meštrovič's former studio and join the locals for an evening pub-crawl (be sure to stop at the 178-year-old tavern Pod Starim Krovovima at Basaričekova 9).