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Greek vases in Agrigento's Museo Archeologico. (Photo by Verity Cridland)
The Ekklesiasterion. (Photo by Clemensfranz)This low museum complex on the right side of the road is the first thing you hit while heading down into the Valley of the Temples.
You enter the Agrigento museum through a little garden and a catwalk over the Ekklesiasterion, a 4th-century BC assembly arena (it looks a bit like a flattened ancient theater, with curved tiers facing a stage).
Inside the museum, Room 3 contains an outstanding collection of superbly painted vases spanning the 6th to 3rd centuries BC—some Attic, but many from Agrigento itself.
The massive telamon in the museum. (Photo by Mr Fogey) Room 6 is devoted to the oversized Temple of the Olympian Zeus, with models of how it once might have looked, and also cinludes the museum's most striking exhibit: a reconstituted ★ telamon stacked up against one wall.
This weather-worn, 25-foot giant used to be part of the temple's decoration—and even it didn't come halfway up the columns of the gargantuan temple itself. (It's hard to get a sense of the sheer scale in the picture on the left, but try this: squint, and on the left edge of the frame you'll see a black plastic chair on a mezzanine balcony. Yeah, its that big.)
In the rest of the museum, look for the 2nd-century BC alabaster sarcophagus of a child, carved with happy childhood moments and a touching death scene, and the 5th-century BC painted krater from Gela showing a battle with the Amazons.
Across the road from the museum lies the Insula Romana, the remains of Roman-era Agrigento.
★ Museo Archeologico Regionale di Agrigento
Via Panoramico dei Templi
tel. +39-0922-401-565
Open Tues–Sat 9am–7:30pm (may close at 5pm during slow periods), Mon 9am–1:30pm, Sun 9am–1pm
Adm: €8
City buses 1, 1/, 2, 2/, 3, and 3/ run from in front of the train station down Via dei Templi into the Valley of the Temples. You can get off at the Museum/Insula Romana or stay on all the way to the Posto di Ristoro, a pricey cafe/souvenir stand at the entrances to the two temple zones.
For a taxi, call tel. +39-0922-26-670 or 0922-21-899. A trip from town down to the temples should be about €15.
If your time is limited, just hit the temples. There's nothing of consequence to see in the city itself.
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★ Museo Archeologico Regionale di Agrigento
Via Panoramico dei Templi
tel. +39-0922-401-565
Open Tues–Sat 9am–7:30pm (may close at 5pm during slow periods), Mon 9am–1:30pm, Sun 9am–1pm
Adm: €8