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The grand dame of Neapolitan cafes is the 1860 ★★ Gran Caffé Gambrinus, on Piazza Trieste e Trento (tel. +39-081-417-582), where intellectuals and writers as diverse as Gabrielle d'Annunzio and Oscar Wilde have gathered since 1860 under the stuccoes, silks, and frescoes of the Belle Époque interior.
The ambiance is a perfect background to enjoy an (albeit pricey) cappuccino and sfogliatella (Naples' premier pastry, a cream-stuffed horn made of flaky millefeuille dough).
There's outdoor seating with an elegant view of the Teatro San Carlo, the Royal Palace, and Piazza Plebescito—but also plenty of noise and fumes from the cars that roar down Via Toledo to turnstile around the traffic circle at your back.
Caffé Gambrinus is closed Tuesdays and in August.
The pastry shop and bar Scaturchio, Piazza S. Domenico 19 (tel. +39-081-551-6944), has also long been a favored spot to sample the rich bounty of Neapolitan pastry, though the setting is far less elegant (and prices a bit lower) than at the Gambrinus.
You'll find the best gelato in town at Gelateria della Scimmia, Piazza Carità 4 (tel. +39- 081-552-0272), established way back in 1934.
Also tops on the Neapolitan gelato list is the Gran Bar Riviera, Riviera di Chiaia 183 (no phone), which opened in 1860 and claims to have invented the tartufo, the divine multi-layered gobstopper of the gelato universe.
TK
English (Inglese) | Italian (Italiano) | Pro-nun-cee-YAY-shun |
Good day | Buon giorno | bwohn JOUR-noh |
Good evening | Buona sera | BWOH-nah SAIR-rah |
Good night | Buona notte | BWOH-nah NOTE-tay |
Goodbye | Arrivederci | ah-ree-vah-DAIR-chee |
Excuse me (to get attention) | Scusi | SKOO-zee |
thank you | grazie | GRAT-tzee-yay |
please | per favore | pair fa-VOHR-ray |
yes | si | see |
no | no | no |
Do you speak English? | Parla Inglese? | PAR-la een-GLAY-zay |
I don't understand | Non capisco | non ka-PEESK-koh |
I'm sorry | Mi dispiace | mee dees-pee-YAT-chay |
Where is? | Dov'é | doh-VAY |
...a restaurant | un ristorante | oon rees toh-RAHN-tay |
...a casual restaurant | una trattoria un'osteria |
oo-nah trah-toar-RHEE-yah oon ohst-air-EE-yah |
I would like to reserve... | Vorrei prenotare... | voar-RAY pray-note-ARE-eh |
a table for two | una tavola per due | oo-nah TAH-voal-lah pair DOO-way |
...for 7pm | per le sette | pair lay SET-tay |
...for 7:30pm | per le sette e mezzo | pair lay SET-tay eh MET-tzoh |
...for 8pm | per le otto | pair lay OH-toh |
I would like | Vorrei... | voar-RAY |
...some (of) | un pó (di) | oon POH (dee) |
...this | questo | KWAY-sto |
...that | quello | KWEL-loh |
chicken | pollo | POL-loh |
steak | bistecca | bee-STEAK-ah |
veal | vitello | vee-TEL-oh |
fish | pesce | PEH-shay |
meat | carne | KAR-neh |
I am vegetarian | sono vegetariano | SO-no veg-eh-tair-ee-YAH-no |
side dish [veggies always come seperately] | cotorno | kon-TOR-no |
dessert | dolce | DOAL-chay |
and | e | ay |
...a glass of | un bicchiere di | oon bee-key-YAIR-eh dee |
...a bottle of | una bottiglia di | oo-na boh-TEEL-ya dee |
...a half-liter of | mezzo litro di | MET-tzoh LEE-tro dee |
...fizzy water | acqua gassata | AH-kwah gah-SAHT-tah |
...still water | acqua non gassata | AH-kwah noan gah-SAHT-tah |
...red wine | vino rosso | VEE-noh ROH-so |
...white wine | vino bianco | VEE-noh bee-YAHN-koh |
...beer | birra | BEER-a |
Check, please | Il conto, per favore | eel COAN-toh pair fah-VOAR-eh |
Is service included? | É incluso il servizio? | ay een-CLOU-so eel sair-VEET-zee-yo |
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