Hotel Villa Athena ★★★

An 18th-centuraly villa set in the gardens of the archaeological park

Splurge shmulrge, this 18th-century villa would be a steal at any price. It may have the most fantastic location of any hotel in Italy: within the Valley of the Temples archaeological park, directly across an olive grove from the Temple of Concord, whose practically perfect Doric profile is framed by the windows of half the rooms (best from rooms 302–304 or 202–206). If you can tear your eyes off the ancient splendor of your next-door neighbor, you'll see the carpeted rooms are smallish but very comfortable, with genuine beds and mattresses and mild-mannered functional pieces. There are several restaurant and bar spaces set into terraced gardens that look over at Concord, and a green pool at the base for washing off the dust of a day at the temples. Book far in advance for this romance, especially during summer, when even Zeus would have a hard time securing a room.

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