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TK. After a maximum of 15 minutes smearing yourself with the supposedly salubrious mud—do not under any circumstances get it anywhere near your eyes—hop across the rocks to the beach just beyond, where underwater hot gas jets give it an effect somewhere between a jacuzzi and acqua minerale frizzante (the underwater rocks near the vents can be scalding, so watch your toes).
Although there's a stretch of yellow sand running up from the Fanghi Jacuzzi spot, those muds make it a bit scummy as a beach. Instead, continue along the main road away from the port and, where it turns sharply right to head toward Vulcanello, turn left off the road where signs point to boat rental outfits for a long and crowded black sand beach, the best swimming on the island.
From here, the road continues arrow-straight toward Vulcanello, [TK history of crater].
The 20 minute clamber to the top is rewarded with a view into the pint-sized crater, a calliope of those seemingly unnatural colors volcanoes disgorge: mud gray, burnt orange, dusty hot pink, egg-yolk yellow, dirty pea green, violet, rust, bone white, and black. Against one wall is a short tunnel that marks where a Scottish chap profitably mined sulphur and other minerals until TK sent him running; the cool cavern is filled solid with flies, but you can scramble down into the crater to admire the weird wavy erosion effects of the surrounding rock.
The trailhead to the top is far from obvious; after the main road turns sharply left, turn up the gated driveway across from the see-around-the-bend road mirror. The driveway climbs and curves right, just after which there's a low gate and parking space on the left; hidden among the trees at the back of this is the path up to Vulcanello.
On the back (north) side of Vulcanello, set into the black sands that slope down to the water, is the rather grandiosely named Valle dei Mostri (valley of the monsters) where a few bread crust bombs spewed forth from the last eruption have weathered into eerily twisted shapes. You can reach it by going back to that main road and following it to the end (at the fork, take the right path and turn left before the gate).
Bring a handkerchief or pull your shirt over your nose when passing through the choking clouds emanating from the sulphur vents.
Visitor information: The seasonal tourist office (tel. +39-090-985-2028) is set up in a different spot every year, but signs will point it out. Its open only mid-June to mid-October, Monday to Saturday 8:30am to 1pm and 4:30 to 7pm.
The provincial website for Lipari and the Aeolian Islands is packed with good info: www.comunelipari.it. There also great info on the islands' Pro Loco site (www.eolieproloco.it) plus on www.lipari.com and the official (but buggy) www.aasteolie.191.it.
There are permanent tourist offices on Lipari at Corso V. Emanuele 202 (tel. +39-090-988-0095) and in Milazzo on Piazza Caio Duilio (tel. +39-090-922-2865).
For more info:
www.comunelipari.it
www.aasteolie.191.it
www.eolieproloco.it
www.lipari.com
You could just alight from the ferry at Vulcano, spend a few hours at the fanghi, then hop another ferry to continue on to Lipari or elsewhere. Most visitors, of course, spend at least one night. (More tips on spending from one to four days exploring the Aeolian islands)
Remove all jewelry before you get in (so it will not get discolored) and don't get any mud in your eyes. (Note: That's not some joke about the old "here's mud in yer eye" toast; it's an actual warning. There are caustic chemicals in the mud that can burn your eyes.)
You can only get to Stromboli by boat—a hydrofoil (aliscafo) will be twice as fast, twice as expensive, and half as romantic as a ferry (traghetto).
TK
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For more info:
www.comunelipari.it
www.aasteolie.191.it
www.eolieproloco.it
www.lipari.com
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