La Ginestra ★

An excellent countryside restaurant on Lipari in the Aeolian Islands of Sicily

Ugo and Marisa Giacomo are justifiably proud of their local traditions, and each dish here is a memorable one. Summer dining is on a large shaded terrace; winter in the simple interior.

It's fairly deserted at lunch when most are down in Lipari town or at the beach, but reserve ahead for popular evenings, when they fire up the pizza oven and people pour in for the island's best food at reasonable prices.

Try tagliatelle nere alla metticiana di mare (noodles blackened by squid ink tossed with fresh tomatoes, clams, shrimp, and mussels), ravioli di melanzane (stuffed with defatted eggplant under a tomato sauce with shredded basil and toasted ricotta), or ravioli di zucca (filled with yellow squash in a butter and sage sauce).

They serve fresh fish or involtini di pesce spada (sword fish rolls), but try their specialty secondo is coniglio in agrodolce (rabbit in a sweet and sour sauce made from pinoli, almonds, crushed raisins, and vino cotto, a local sweet wine cooked down with fruit for flavor).

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