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Ristorante Trullo d'Oro – Atmosphere it's got in spades—you dine in a complex of 19th cenutry trulli—but the hard wooden seats are rather uncomfortable. Good thing the food's so darn good (and portions huge). You can sample three of their most traditional primi with the assaggini dello chef, perhaps including spaghetti al trullo (with fresh tomatoes, arugola, and parmigiano), orecchiette alberobellesi (in ragù with savory bread balls on top), and purè di fave con cicoria. Secondi are less outstanding, but still well done. If the assaggini were almost too much, go easy with melanzane ripiene (stuffed eggplant). Otherwise dine on capretto ai carboni (kid cooked over coals), or the popular arrosto misto (mixed meat roast), or involtini.
Via Felice Cavallotti 17. tel. +39-080-432-1820. www.trullodoro.it.
La Dolce Vita
You'll find nothing but exquisitely prepared Pugliese fare in the restaurant attached to Hotel Lanzillotti. The owner doesn't believe in frozen ingredients, so the selection varies with the seasons—the orecchiette are topped with ragù in winter, cima di rape in summer, and the excellent purè di fave comes either with summery bietole (Swiss chard) or wintery cicoria (chicory). Secondi are equally basic but good; try the agnello alla brace (grilled lamb). The house wine ain't bad, the homemde desserts even better.
Piazza Ferdinando IV 33 (in the Hotel Lanzillotta). tel. +39-080-432-1511. www.hotellanzillotta.it. Closed Tues (open daily June–Aug).
Alberobello tourist office:
Via Monte Nero 3
tel. +39-080-432-4419
My favorites are purè di fave con cicoria (pureed fava beans—a bit like mashed potatoes—with sauteed chicory) and orecchiette with cima di rape (thick little pasta Frisbees topped with wilted broccoli rabe leaves, which a bit like turnip greens).
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