Osteria a la Campana ★★
Osteria La Campana in Venice.
A locals' trattoria hidden in plain sight in the heart of the Venice tourist zone
This place is the farthest thing from fancy dining. It is, however, the closest thing in central Venice to absolutely authentic dining.
Simple food, simply prepared, in a simple setting. In other words: Simply perfect. (This is why a cheap, achingly plain osteria gets two stars from me.)
It just says "Osteria" in the window, and from the door you can see only the bar. The wood-paneled dining room next-door has curtains in the windows, almost as if to keep the tourists who wash up and down the busy street just a few blocks from St. Mark's Square from discovering this budget eatery buzzing with Venetian dialect from its tightly-packed, tiny wooden tables.
There's no menu, they just rattle off the day's pre-prepared dishes when you sit down (come early before the good stuff's gobbled up).
They operate under a true home-cooking mentality: if the rigatoni's tomato sauce is ragued with tuna, then the fried polpette (meatballs) will be tuna as well.
Dishes change daily: perhaps pasta with prosciutto and peas, bocconcini of veal cooked tender in milk, or batter-fried fish.
The table wine is a sfuso (wine on tap) from the Friuli, and if soccer is on, so's the TV up in the corner.
Tips & links
Details
Osteria a la Campana ★★
Calle dei Fabbri 4720, San Marco (on the main street leading north out of Piazza San Marco toward Teatro Goldoni)
Vaporetto: San Marco or Rialto
tel. +39-041-528-5170
Ostarialacampana.it
Closed Sun
€€
Nearby...
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General dining tips
- Book ahead: Great Venetian restaurants are few and far between—and everybody knows about them. It pays to reserve your table, at least at dinner. I find that a corollary of Murphy's Law seems to apply. If you prudently book ahead, you are likely to show up to a half-empty restaurant and feel a bit like a fool for having worried about finding a table. If, on the other hand, you just show up at the door expecting to find a free table, the place will inevitably be packed and its bookings full for the evening. For restaurants that I am truly eager to try, I go ahead and book.
- "Pane e coperto" is not a scam: Nearly all Italian restaurants have an unavoidable pane e coperto ("bread and cover" charge) of anything from €1 to €15—though most often €2 to €5—per person that is automatically added onto your bill. This is perfectly normal and perfectly legal (though a few trendy restaurants make a big deal about not charging it).
- Find out if service (tip) is included: Don't double-tip by accident. If the menu has a line—usually near the bottom of the front or back—that says "servizio" with either a percentage, an amount, or the word "incluso" after it, that means the tip is automatically included in the price. (If it says "servizio non incluso," tip is, obviously, not included.)
Even if the menu doesn't say it, ask É incluso il servizio? (ay een-CLOU-so eel sair-VEET-zee-yo)—"Is service included?" If not, tip accordingly (10%–15% is standard).
Don't be stingy about tipping, though. If il servizio is, indeed, already included but the service was particularly good, it's customary to round up the bill or leave €1 per person extra—just to show you noticed and that you appreciated the effort.
- Tourist menus: The concept of a bargain prix-fixe menu is not popular in Italy. Some restaurants do offer a menu turistico ("tourist menu"), which can cost from €8 to €20 and usually entails a choice from among two or three basic first courses (read: different pasta shapes, all in plain tomato sauce), a second course of roast chicken or a veal cutlet, and some water or wine and bread. With very few exceptions, tourist menus tend to live up to their name, appearing only at the sort of tourist-pandering restaurants that the locals wisely steer clear of.
However, a menu à prezzo fisso ("fixed-price menu") is often a pretty good deal, usually offering a bit more choice than a tourist menu.
Then—especially at nicer (and pricier) restaurants—there is the menu degustazione ("tasting menu"), usually far more expensive (anywhere from €25 to €110) that is a showcase of the chef's best, or of regional specialties, and can make for an excellent way to sample the kitchen's top dishes.
- Book ahead: For restaurants that I am truly eager to try, I go ahead and book a table—at least at dinner. I find that a corollary of Murphy's Law seems to apply. If you prudently book ahead, you are likely to show up to a half-empty restaurant and feel a bit like a fool for having worried about finding a table. If, on the other hand, you just show up at the door expecting to find a free table, the place will inevitably be packed and its bookings full for the evening.
Top Venice culinary tours & experiences
Italian dining phrases
English (Inglese) |
Italian (Italiano) |
Pro-nun-cee-YAY-shun |
Good day |
Buon giorno |
bwohn JOUR-noh |
Good evening |
Buona sera |
BWOH-nah SAIR-rah |
Good night |
Buona notte |
BWOH-nah NOTE-tay |
Goodbye |
Arrivederci |
ah-ree-vah-DAIR-chee |
Excuse me (to get attention) |
Scusi |
SKOO-zee |
thank you |
grazie |
GRAT-tzee-yay |
please |
per favore |
pair fa-VOHR-ray |
yes |
si |
see |
no |
no |
no |
Do you speak English? |
Parla Inglese? |
PAR-la een-GLAY-zay |
I don't understand |
Non capisco |
non ka-PEESK-koh |
I'm sorry |
Mi dispiace |
mee dees-pee-YAT-chay |
|
|
|
Where is? |
Dov'é |
doh-VAY |
...a restaurant |
un ristorante |
oon rees toh-RAHN-tay |
...a casual restaurant |
una trattoria
un'osteria |
oo-nah trah-toar-RHEE-yah
oon ohst-air-EE-yah |
I would like to reserve... |
Vorrei prenotare... |
voar-RAY pray-note-ARE-eh |
a table for two |
una tavola per due |
oo-nah TAH-voal-lah pair DOO-way |
...for 7pm |
per le sette |
pair lay SET-tay |
...for 7:30pm |
per le sette e mezzo |
pair lay SET-tay eh MET-tzoh |
...for 8pm |
per le otto |
pair lay OH-toh |
|
|
|
I would like |
Vorrei... |
voar-RAY |
...some (of) |
un pó (di) |
oon POH (dee) |
...this |
questo |
KWAY-sto |
...that |
quello |
KWEL-loh |
chicken |
pollo |
POL-loh |
steak |
bistecca |
bee-STEAK-ah |
veal |
vitello |
vee-TEL-oh |
fish |
pesce |
PEH-shay |
meat |
carne |
KAR-neh |
I am vegetarian |
sono vegetariano |
SO-no veg-eh-tair-ee-YAH-no |
side dish [veggies always come seperately] |
cotorno |
kon-TOR-no |
dessert |
dolce |
DOAL-chay |
and |
e |
ay |
...a glass of |
un bicchiere di |
oon bee-key-YAIR-eh dee |
...a bottle of |
una bottiglia di |
oo-na boh-TEEL-ya dee |
...a half-liter of |
mezzo litro di |
MET-tzoh LEE-tro dee |
...fizzy water |
acqua gassata |
AH-kwah gah-SAHT-tah |
...still water |
acqua non gassata |
AH-kwah noan gah-SAHT-tah |
...red wine |
vino rosso |
VEE-noh ROH-so |
...white wine |
vino
bianco |
VEE-noh bee-YAHN-koh |
...beer |
birra |
BEER-a |
Check, please |
Il conto, per favore |
eel COAN-toh pair fah-VOAR-eh |
Is service included? |
É incluso il servizio? |
ay een-CLOU-so eel sair-VEET-zee-yo |
Venice links & resources
- Airport transfers: By land (to Piazzale Roma)
- Atvo.it (shuttle bus: €6)
- Actv.it (city bus: €6)
- Venice rail station
- Venezia Santa Lucia: Grandistazioni.it, Fondamenta S. Lucia (in the NW corner of the city)
- Vaproetto to San Marco: 1, 2, N
- Driving/parking
- Asmvenezia.it (Piazzale Rome garage: most central, €23–29; S. Giuliano lot: farthest, €12)
- Veniceparking.it (Tronchetto garage: fairly central, €21)
- Car resources
- Emergency service/tow: tel. 803-116
- Highway agency: Autostrade.it (traffic info, serivce areas, toll calculator, weather)
- Italian automotive club (~AAA): Aci.it
- ZTLs: Ztl-italia.blogspot.com (lightly outdated, but handy, links to cities' traffic-free zones)
Walks & Day tours
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