This tiny trattoria hidden in a tangle of alleys near the Arno is a cracked-tile-type joint where everyone from local neighbors and intellectuals to journalists and the Florentine soccer team chows down.
Long long communal tables fill a couple of pocket-size rooms wrapped around a cubbyhole of a kitchen whose chef, according to the restaurant's dialect name, is a bit off his rocker.
It has managed the seeming impossible: remaining authentic over all these years somehow without become guidebook-famous (though judging by the photos on the walls, clearly international movie stars know to make their way here). Sadly, prices have crept up in recent years.
Now in its second generation of family ownership (Gianluca recently took over from his father, Gianfranco, who bought the place in the early 1970s), Coco Lezzone's kitchen still uses a 100-year-old wood-burning stove.
The cooking is rigorously, deliciously unreformed Florentine classical. While enjoying your ribollita (Tuscany's bready, veggie stew/soup, known here as a "triumph of humility") or rigatoni al sugo (in a chunky ragù), look at where the yellow paint on the lower half of the wall gives way to white: That's how high the Arno flooded the joint in 1966.
If you want a bistecca alla Fiorentina, call ahead first.
Friday is baccalà (salt cod) day, and every day their involtini (thin veal slice wrapped around vegetables) and crocchette di filetto (veal-and-basil meat loaf smothered in tomato sauce) are good
Coco Lezzone
Via del Parioncino 26r
(Santa Maria Novella)
tel. +39-055-287-178
Cocolezzone.it
Mon–Fri: 6:30pm–10:30pm
Sat–Sun: 12pm–2:30pm, 6:30pm–10:30pm
€€€
Bus: 6, 11
Hop-on/hop-off: Ognissanti (A)
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Wine tastings
Cooking classes
Special meals
Vineyard excursions
» Chianti
» Other Tuscan wine regions
English (Inglese) | Italian (Italiano) | Pro-nun-cee-YAY-shun |
Good day | Buon giorno | bwohn JOUR-noh |
Good evening | Buona sera | BWOH-nah SAIR-rah |
Good night | Buona notte | BWOH-nah NOTE-tay |
Goodbye | Arrivederci | ah-ree-vah-DAIR-chee |
Excuse me (to get attention) | Scusi | SKOO-zee |
thank you | grazie | GRAT-tzee-yay |
please | per favore | pair fa-VOHR-ray |
yes | si | see |
no | no | no |
Do you speak English? | Parla Inglese? | PAR-la een-GLAY-zay |
I don't understand | Non capisco | non ka-PEESK-koh |
I'm sorry | Mi dispiace | mee dees-pee-YAT-chay |
Where is? | Dov'é | doh-VAY |
...a restaurant | un ristorante | oon rees toh-RAHN-tay |
...a casual restaurant | una trattoria un'osteria |
oo-nah trah-toar-RHEE-yah oon ohst-air-EE-yah |
I would like to reserve... | Vorrei prenotare... | voar-RAY pray-note-ARE-eh |
a table for two | una tavola per due | oo-nah TAH-voal-lah pair DOO-way |
...for 7pm | per le sette | pair lay SET-tay |
...for 7:30pm | per le sette e mezzo | pair lay SET-tay eh MET-tzoh |
...for 8pm | per le otto | pair lay OH-toh |
I would like | Vorrei... | voar-RAY |
...some (of) | un pó (di) | oon POH (dee) |
...this | questo | KWAY-sto |
...that | quello | KWEL-loh |
chicken | pollo | POL-loh |
steak | bistecca | bee-STEAK-ah |
veal | vitello | vee-TEL-oh |
fish | pesce | PEH-shay |
meat | carne | KAR-neh |
I am vegetarian | sono vegetariano | SO-no veg-eh-tair-ee-YAH-no |
side dish [veggies always come seperately] | cotorno | kon-TOR-no |
dessert | dolce | DOAL-chay |
and | e | ay |
...a glass of | un bicchiere di | oon bee-key-YAIR-eh dee |
...a bottle of | una bottiglia di | oo-na boh-TEEL-ya dee |
...a half-liter of | mezzo litro di | MET-tzoh LEE-tro dee |
...fizzy water | acqua gassata | AH-kwah gah-SAHT-tah |
...still water | acqua non gassata | AH-kwah noan gah-SAHT-tah |
...red wine | vino rosso | VEE-noh ROH-so |
...white wine | vino bianco | VEE-noh bee-YAHN-koh |
...beer | birra | BEER-a |
Check, please | Il conto, per favore | eel COAN-toh pair fah-VOAR-eh |
Is service included? | É incluso il servizio? | ay een-CLOU-so eel sair-VEET-zee-yo |
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Coco Lezzone
Via del Parioncino 26r
(Santa Maria Novella)
tel. +39-055-287-178
Cocolezzone.it
Mon–Fri: 6:30pm–10:30pm
Sat–Sun: 12pm–2:30pm, 6:30pm–10:30pm
€€€
Bus: 6, 11
Hop-on/hop-off: Ognissanti (A)
Walks & Seminars
Wine tastings
Cooking classes
Special meals
Vineyard excursions
» Chianti
» Other Tuscan wine regions