Hotel Cortese

An amazingly cheap family-run hotel in the Ballarò market quarter of Palermo, Sicily

If you're up to braving the back streets around Ballarò market—a somewhat dicey neighborhood after dark, but not the city's worst by any stretch—you'll find great rates at this family-run hotel. (I'm not trying to scare you off, just give you a heads-up: this great little hotel is in a gritty, genuine city neighborhood in a gritty, genuine city.)

The amazing upside: Double rooms start as low as €39 (that's the price online; rack rates begin at €40 without private bath, €50 with private bath—add €10 to each in summer).

Accommodations are medium to small, but not tiny (they save "tiny" for the baths). Rooms with bath feature brand-new furnishings and comfy beds. Those without bath have the same furniture but inferior mattresses, which the hotel plans to replace before this book hits the shelves.

Some rooms overlook the colorful (but noisy) market, but about half open over side streets. Top floor rooms have vistas over the quarter's rooftops and a few baroque domes.

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