La Brace

Rib-sticking fine dining in Cefalù

The dark wood tables covered with black-and-white tooled red scarves and tiny oil lamps evoke Thea de Haan's Indonesian origins while the stone arches and bulk of the menu are firmly Sicilian.

Co-owner Dietmar Beckers' Dutch influence must be in the restaurant's efficiency, pleasant attitude, and hearty rib-sticking nature of some of their more innovative dishes such as involtini di melanzane (eggplant wrapped around tagliatelle and hard ricotta salata cheese then baked under tomatoes and parmigiano).

Other excellent primi include spaghetti alla crudaiola (with garlic, capers, tomatoes, basil, and prosciutto) and rigatoni al rustico (in a spicy tomato sauce laced with gorgonzola).

Afterward try the spiedini di pesce spada (marinated swordfish nuggets skewered with sweet peppers, grilled, and served in a lemon-mustard sauce), or tournedos La Brace (rare beef medallions cooked with pancetta under fused butter).

Save room for their famous banana Le Brace dessert, a banana doused with orange liqueur, baked in foil, then topped with whipped cream.

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