Where to stay and dine on the Costa Verde

Practical matters for visiting Sardinia's Costa Verde

The Costa Verde on the southern half of Sardegna's western coast consists of a string of small villages gathered under administrative region of "Marina di Arbus."

There are two main places to stay along the Costa Verde:

1. At the delightful but posh (and pricey) Hotel Le Dune, converted from an old mine building behind Piscinas beach where double rooms go for €150 to €400) » book
2. In the resort village of Torre dei Corsari.

Near the coast's northern end rises the laid-back resort town of Torre del Corsari, a quiet conglomerate of low, unobtrusive condos and a few modest hotels flanked by the 17th-century pirate watchtower that lends the town its name.

The town sits atop a bluff overlooking grassy dunes and a long beach with a handful of bars and rental stands followed by an uninterrupted mile of yellow sand curving around deep blue waters. It is the perfect place for exploring the coast.

I contacted Brigida and Roberto Paulucci of Brezza Marina to rent one of their 70 modern apartments and villas scattered around town for roughly half the price of a hotel.

Since it was a rental unit, I didn't get maid service, complimentary toiletries, or hotel amenities such as TV, A/C, and telephones.

I did, however, get to live like a local, with a private entrance, my own kitchen (to supplement the passable but uninspired fare at the town's handful of pizzeria/restaurants), and views from my shaded terrace over the windswept dunes and the path to the beach below.

• Brezza Marina. Viale della Torre 10, Torre dei Corsari. tel. +39-338-367-6886, www.brezzamarina.it. Two– and three-bedroom apartments cost €43–€107 per night (from €50 online); villas sleeping up to eight cost €57–€114 (from €60 online). In August, there's a minimum stay of one-week.
• More hotels at Booking.com » book

Ristorante Torri dei Corsari was by far the friendliest of the pizzerie I tried in town, a shaded rooftop terrace with a cheery staff.

• Ristorante Torri dei Corsari. Viale della Torre, Torre dei Corsari. tel. +39-070-977-028, www.ristorantefrongia.it. Meals from €30.

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