L'Osteria Grand Hotel ★★★
Fine food and a little bit of country ambiance in the city
Since 1981 this osteria—named for the Greta Garbo film, not part of some fancy hotel—has offered a little slice of the countryside in the midst of the big city. It's tucked away far beyond the other trendy restaurants, bars, and clubs that have sprouted all along the canals of the southerly Navigli district.
You must venture south along the canal, cross a highway, and turn left down a blind alley and go through two high gates. Just when you think you must be in the wrong place—and completely lost to boot—there's the doorway that opens into the culinary realm run by Milan native Stefania Zari and her Mantuan partner Fabrizio Paganini.
Near the entrance to this single long room, a cheese table groans under the weight of more than a dozen scrumptious choices, most of them obscure but excellent local varieties made according to ancient techniques. A door just past the high bar opens in warm weather onto a wisteria-shaded patio overlooking a gravelly bocce ball court, completing the countryside feel.
While you ponder the more than 600 labels populating the heavy tome they call a wine list, you can nibble an excellent seasonal appetizer such as (in late summer) a terrine of pureed porcini mushrooms drizzled with a medley of melted Alpine cheeses from the Valle d'Aosta. Settle in for a long meal of dishes that freely mix recipes from the owners' native Lombard lands with ingredients and styles culled from culinary traditions across Italy.
Reservations are highly recommended, especially for terrace seating.
Favorite dishes
- fatted goose liver pâté and a sweet roll)
- trenette (short pasta twists) in a ragout of fresh tuna and sautéed baby fennel
- orecchiette ("little ears"—tiny, thick Frisbee-shaped pasta) in a simple sauce of diced eggplant
- ravioli stuffed with smoked sheep's cheese and topped with chopped fresh tomatoes
- veal kidneys perched atop a bed of spinach
- duck breast sauced with wild blackberries
- de-boned guinea hen breast stuffed with grapes
- cinnamon ice cream topped with a fruit mostarda
Tips & links
Details
Via Asciano Sforza 75
tel. +39-02-8951-1586
www.grandhotelosteria.it
Closed Mon
General dining tips
- "Pane e coperto" is not a scam: Nearly all Italian restaurants have an unavoidable pane e coperto ("bread and cover" charge) of anything from €1 to €15—though most often €2 to €5—per person that is automatically added onto your bill. This is perfectly normal and perfectly legal (though a few trendy restaurants make a big deal about not charging it).
- Find out if service (tip) is included: Don't double-tip by accident. If the menu has a line—usually near the bottom of the front or back—that says "servizio" with either a percentage, an amount, or the word "incluso" after it, that means the tip is automatically included in the price. (If it says "servizio non incluso," tip is, obviously, not included.)
Even if the menu doesn't say it, ask É incluso il servizio? (ay een-CLOU-so eel sair-VEET-zee-yo)—"Is service included?" If not, tip accordingly (10%–15% is standard).
Don't be stingy about tipping, though. If il servizio is, indeed, already included but the service was particularly good, it's customary to round up the bill or leave €1 per person extra—just to show you noticed and that you appreciated the effort.
- Tourist menus: The concept of a bargain prix-fixe menu is not popular in Italy. Some restaurants do offer a menu turistico ("tourist menu"), which can cost from €8 to €20 and usually entails a choice from among two or three basic first courses (read: different pasta shapes, all in plain tomato sauce), a second course of roast chicken or a veal cutlet, and some water or wine and bread. With very few exceptions, tourist menus tend to live up to their name, appearing only at the sort of tourist-pandering restaurants that the locals wisely steer clear of.
However, a menu à prezzo fisso ("fixed-price menu") is often a pretty good deal, usually offering a bit more choice than a tourist menu.
Then—especially at nicer (and pricier) restaurants—there is the menu degustazione ("tasting menu"), usually far more expensive (anywhere from €25 to €110) that is a showcase of the chef's best, or of regional specialties, and can make for an excellent way to sample the kitchen's top dishes.
- Book ahead: For restaurants that I am truly eager to try, I go ahead and book a table—at least at dinner. I find that a corollary of Murphy's Law seems to apply. If you prudently book ahead, you are likely to show up to a half-empty restaurant and feel a bit like a fool for having worried about finding a table. If, on the other hand, you just show up at the door expecting to find a free table, the place will inevitably be packed and its bookings full for the evening.
Italian dining phrases
English (Inglese) |
Italian (Italiano) |
Pro-nun-cee-YAY-shun |
Good day |
Buon giorno |
bwohn JOUR-noh |
Good evening |
Buona sera |
BWOH-nah SAIR-rah |
Good night |
Buona notte |
BWOH-nah NOTE-tay |
Goodbye |
Arrivederci |
ah-ree-vah-DAIR-chee |
Excuse me (to get attention) |
Scusi |
SKOO-zee |
thank you |
grazie |
GRAT-tzee-yay |
please |
per favore |
pair fa-VOHR-ray |
yes |
si |
see |
no |
no |
no |
Do you speak English? |
Parla Inglese? |
PAR-la een-GLAY-zay |
I don't understand |
Non capisco |
non ka-PEESK-koh |
I'm sorry |
Mi dispiace |
mee dees-pee-YAT-chay |
|
|
|
Where is? |
Dov'é |
doh-VAY |
...a restaurant |
un ristorante |
oon rees toh-RAHN-tay |
...a casual restaurant |
una trattoria
un'osteria |
oo-nah trah-toar-RHEE-yah
oon ohst-air-EE-yah |
I would like to reserve... |
Vorrei prenotare... |
voar-RAY pray-note-ARE-eh |
a table for two |
una tavola per due |
oo-nah TAH-voal-lah pair DOO-way |
...for 7pm |
per le sette |
pair lay SET-tay |
...for 7:30pm |
per le sette e mezzo |
pair lay SET-tay eh MET-tzoh |
...for 8pm |
per le otto |
pair lay OH-toh |
|
|
|
I would like |
Vorrei... |
voar-RAY |
...some (of) |
un pó (di) |
oon POH (dee) |
...this |
questo |
KWAY-sto |
...that |
quello |
KWEL-loh |
chicken |
pollo |
POL-loh |
steak |
bistecca |
bee-STEAK-ah |
veal |
vitello |
vee-TEL-oh |
fish |
pesce |
PEH-shay |
meat |
carne |
KAR-neh |
I am vegetarian |
sono vegetariano |
SO-no veg-eh-tair-ee-YAH-no |
side dish [veggies always come seperately] |
cotorno |
kon-TOR-no |
dessert |
dolce |
DOAL-chay |
and |
e |
ay |
...a glass of |
un bicchiere di |
oon bee-key-YAIR-eh dee |
...a bottle of |
una bottiglia di |
oo-na boh-TEEL-ya dee |
...a half-liter of |
mezzo litro di |
MET-tzoh LEE-tro dee |
...fizzy water |
acqua gassata |
AH-kwah gah-SAHT-tah |
...still water |
acqua non gassata |
AH-kwah noan gah-SAHT-tah |
...red wine |
vino rosso |
VEE-noh ROH-so |
...white wine |
vino
bianco |
VEE-noh bee-YAHN-koh |
...beer |
birra |
BEER-a |
Check, please |
Il conto, per favore |
eel COAN-toh pair fah-VOAR-eh |
Is service included? |
É incluso il servizio? |
ay een-CLOU-so eel sair-VEET-zee-yo |
Useful links & resources
- Public transit
- Bus/Metro/Tram: TK
- Airports
- Milano Malpensa: TK
- Milano Linate: TK
- Bergamo: TK
- Airport transfers (Malpensa):
- Bus (€TK; TK min): TK
- Private (€TK; TK min): Viator.com
- Taxi (€TK; TK min): TK
- Airport transfers (Linate):
- Bus (€TK; TK min): TK
- Private (€TK; TK min): Viator.com
- Taxi (€TK; TK min): TK
- Airport transfers (Bergamo):
- Bus (€TK; TK min): TK
- Private (€TK; TK min): Viator.com
- Taxi (€TK; TK min): TK
- Milan rail station
- Milano Centrale: Milanocentrale.it, TK add (TK loc)
- Buses to center: TK
- Car resources
- Emergency service/tow: tel. 803-116
- Highway agency: Autostrade.it (traffic info, serivce areas, toll calculator, weather)
- Italian automotive club (~AAA): Aci.it
- ZTLs: Ztl-italia.blogspot.com (lightly outdated, but handy, links to cities' traffic-free zones)
Share this page
Search ReidsItaly.com