Hotel Villa Krupp

The Hotel Villa Krupp is one of the Secret Hotels of the Amalfi Coast, an old world hotel with a view in a quiet corner of Capri

This Grand Dame of a hotel clings to the subdued grandeur of bygone days when Russian intellectuals such as Lenin and Gorky were lodgers. Lost amid the winding pathways of the Giardini di Augusto park terraced up a hillside on the south side of Capri Town, the Krupp has largely been forgotten by the wider world.

Owner Valentina Coppola certainly seems to have forgotten to raise her prices to keep up with the island's popularity, though she continues to fuss over the details, carefully selecting the local reproduction antiques and Florentine artiginal furnishings, positioning the breakfast terrace for optimal views, and counseling her guests on where to find the best restaurants on an island plagued by lackluster tourist trattorie.

This explains why her 12 rooms are often booked by repeat guests who stay for a week or longer each summer. While the rooms have A/C and telephones, you won't find TVs.

"Our clients come for quiet," sniffs Signora Coppola—though she has relented and installed a TV in the lounge, just in case. It's rarely switched on. Most guests prefer to sit on their room balconies, gazing over umbrella pines to the famous i faraglioni sea stacks, and listening to the chirping cicadas and the splash of water against the rocks far below.

That view has more trees than sea from the €130–€150 "standard" rooms on the ground floor. Plump €170 for a "Primo piano" room upstairs for better views from blue-tiled terraces, and for slightly fancier digs: elaborately painted furnishings, wooden bed frames sculpted with birds, and filigree mirror frames finished with gold leaf.

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