Hotel Casa Albertina ★★

A wonderful hotel with a view in the Amalfi Coast town of Positano

Rather had to find, but oh! worth the splurge. Many of the rooms were recently renovated and, while small, have built-in closets and small terraces to make up for it.

Most are done in Mediterranean blue and white (or sumptuous red-and-white), with padded headboards, marble-top sinks in the modern baths, cool tile floors, and easy chairs beginning to show wear.

But what you really come for are the perfect views over the Spiaggia Grande, majolica church dome, Positano's posh other half, and the stunning, undulating coastline beyond. By July they're booked through September.

Rooms nos. 22–24 have the biggest terraces, and 24 has a Jacuzzi (but dusty-pink romantic no. 31 has a hot tub built for two in a bath-with-a-view). Avoid older rooms with the tiny balconies and aging furnishings, as well as nos. 25–27 with truncated vistas.

The drawback: a prodigious number of stairs down (and back up!) to the port; after dinner, you can head a few dozen steps down to Bar Ciro, with tables set on a panoramic curve of Viale Pasitea and often a guitar or mandolin player entertaining evening customers.

How to get there: Get off the SITA coastal bus at the first Positano stop ("Chiesa Nuova"), then walk down Viale Pasitea to the Hotel San Pietro—the white main hotel, not its yellow "residence" branch up the road!—and take the stairs down just to the hotel's left; coming from Positano's center, take the stairs up between Bar Ciro and Trattoria da Vincenzo.

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