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Run by seven siblings, the Hotel Amalfi sits in the casbah of whitewashed streets just off the main drag.
It's a basic hotel, but clean and unexpectedly roomy, featuring broad tile floors, cots with little back support, and functional furnishings in light-tone wood lacquer. A few have small balconies brightened by potted geraniums.
Unusual in a hotel this cheap (rates for a double room start at €80), the rooms sport all the amenities of a three-star inn—such as private bathrooms, in-room safes, and satellite TV—along with such thoughtful touches as WiFi.
Splurge on a "superior" category room (about €20 more) and you are guaranteed one of the larger guest quarters in the house (plus it comes with a mini-fridge).
Some rooms overlook the gleaming white alleys surrounding the hotel. Others get a view of the hotel's secret weapon: a pretty patio garden blossoming with the orange trees that provide the fruit for your breakfast juice.
Speaking of which, there's also a lovely roof terrace for breakfast al fresco with a view over the rooftops to the cathedral's majolica-clad bell tower.
» bookVia dei Pastai 3 (about halfway up the main road in town, look for a sign pointing up a stair/street off to the left), Amalfi
tel. +39-089-872-440
www.hamalfi.it
Closed Jan 6–Mar
€€
» book
Planning your time: You could see every official "sight" in the town of Amalfi in 60–90 minutes—though it is a lovely place to relax for a while, maybe take a cappuccino on the piazza overlooking the steps up to the Duomo.
Amalfi also makes an ideal place to spend the night. It has several good restaurants, and the town is just large enough to keep the feeling that there's a bit of local life beyond the tourism, making it a joy to wander (the others—Positano and Ravello especially, may be more postcard-quaint and pretty, but Amalfi feels more real).
Besides, it is the one place on the Amalfi Coast where you have to switch buses—either to return west up the coast toward Postiano and Sorrento, to made a side trip up to pretty Ravello, or to continue east along the coast to Salerno.
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