Via Colonna

The end of the Appian Way in Brindisi

Before Brindisi was mobbed by Greece-bound tourists, before the Crusaders marched through and the pilgrims prayed here, there were the Romans. The legions of Rome beat a path toward Brindisi called the Via Appia.

This mighty highway starts in Rome (where it's famously lined with early Christian catacombs), and it ends here, at the ancient port of Brindisi, where the legionnaires would board the boats that would carry them off to conquer an empire.

I followed this final stretch of the Appian Way to the steps leading down to the port, where the ancient road's terminus is still marked by a pair of columns—well, one column and one pedestal (the other pillar now stands in Lecce).

I stood on the spot where, for two millennia, untold millions have said their goodbyes to Italy, and I looked out over the calm blue waters of the Adriatic. Then I turned and walked back to the train station to board a train bound for Rome, and a plane bound for home.