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churches

St. Martin-in-the-Fields
Perfect little 1726 chruchlet anchoring the northeast corner of Trafalgar Square with its grandly small spire. This was, in fact, a field, way back in the 13th century when the first church was built on the site. But it was this 18th century version that became part of the blueprint for the American colonial style—which may explain why the structure might look vaguely familiar to folks from the sorts of old towns in New England that still retain their church spires. St. Martin hosts a multitude of free music concerts at miday and in evening (just sit in a pew and listen), and there's a spiffy cheap cafe in the crypt underneath, where the little metal tables balance atop a worn tombstone paving. Brass rubbing, too (though that's costly).

Westminster Cathedral
Not world-renowned Westminster Abbey—where all the famous dead blokes are buried (and you have to pay to pay your respects)—but rather London's Catholic cathrdeal. It's a typically flamboyant and inventive Victorian era (1895-1903) imitation of Italian Romanesque architecture, from the red striped belltower to the rich marbles of the interior. Excellent summertime organ concerts every second Tuesday.