Of eating calf intestines, ox tails, sea snails, and sheep’s head stew—plus some edibles I was never able to determine what they were

On traveler rudeness, small acts of kindness, unexpected celebrities, and a sightseeing experiment to examine a narrow, 20-year band of Rome’s history

It is around 9pm on the last day of October, All Hallow’s Eve. Back home, in America, it is Halloween, and everywhere kids are looking forward to the end of the school day when they can dress up and hit the streets to fill pillowcases with candy begged from the neighbors. Here in Venice, it is simply October 31, the […]

Why are there a dozen people crammed into Sorelle Picchi, one of many little salumerie (delis) along Parma’s Via Farini? More to the point, why are none of them ordering three etti of prosciutto, a kilo of pecorino, and a box of homemade pasta from old Claudio, who stands behind the counter carefully bundling up giant wedges of aged parmigiano […]