Category: Europe
Adventures in Dining

Of eating calf intestines, ox tails, sea snails, and sheep’s head stew—plus some edibles I was never able to determine what they were

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Now you can do Budapest in a long weekend

Budapest is the Europe you’ve been looking for: fine wines, decorative buildings, genuine people, hearty cuisine, elegant baths, marvelously convoluted history, and low, low prices.

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Runde Ecke: The Stasi Museum of Leipzig

How East Germany’s ideological dictatorship turned calculated cruelty into a daily routine at Leipzig’s former Stasi (secret police) headquarters

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Chasing Lorenzo around Rome

On traveler rudeness, small acts of kindness, unexpected celebrities, and a sightseeing experiment to examine a narrow, 20-year band of Rome’s history

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Entirely the Wrong Witch

It is around 9pm on the last day of October, All Hallow’s Eve. Back home, in America, it is Halloween, and everywhere kids are looking forward to the end of the school day when they can dress up and hit the streets to fill pillowcases with candy begged from the neighbors. Here in Venice, it is simply October 31, the […]

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The Sisters Picchi & the Nobel Prize

Why are there a dozen people crammed into Sorelle Picchi, one of many little salumerie (delis) along Parma’s Via Farini? More to the point, why are none of them ordering three etti of prosciutto, a kilo of pecorino, and a box of homemade pasta from old Claudio, who stands behind the counter carefully bundling up giant wedges of aged parmigiano […]

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