The Scala Santa

The Holy Stairs, a chapel built around the great relic of the steps to Pontius Pilate's palace that Jesus once climbed to meet his fate

Across the street from Rome's cathedral (San Giovanni in Laterano), is an unassuming, small, chapel-like structure housing the Scala Santa.

This "Holy Staircase" consists of 28 steps of Tyrian marble that legend holds were the actual staircase of Pilate's house, which Jesus descended after being condemned.

The same legend holds that St. Helena, mother of Constantine the Great, brought them back from a relic-gathering trip to the Holy Land (she also managed to return with the True Cross).

Only the devout are allowed to climb the Holy Staircase itself, and only on their knees. Pilgrims (or the curious) who prefer to use their feet can climb up less sanctified steps to either side of the Holy Stairs.

At the top of the stairs is the lovely Sancta Sanctorum, a private papal chapel with 13th century frescoes you can barely glimpse through the grating, plus a painting of Christ said to have been started by St. Luke and finished by an angel.

It does, at least, date to the 4th century, though it's been retouched many, many times, not always by angels.

It used the be restricted to the pope and special services, which was cool; I could accept that. Now it's open to the public... and charges admission, which is definitely not cool.

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