Posts under Tag: germany
Runde Ecke: The Stasi Museum of Leipzig
Runde_ecke_thin

How East Germany’s ideological dictatorship turned calculated cruelty into a daily routine at Leipzig’s former Stasi (secret police) headquarters

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Coming to Terms with the German Wine Thing (and the Viewless Rooms Thing)

I decided to skip the most famous town on the Romantic Road, Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Last time I was there, dragging the boy scouts through Europe, I ended up in a shouting match with a giant tour bus. Well, the bus mostly just shouted, “BEEP!” It was one of those double-high jobbers where the passengers sit way up, leaning […]

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Braumeisters and Bullseyes

They call the Pegnitz a “river,” but on my drive downstream I didn’t see it get any wider than about 35 feet, if that. Most of the time is remained a little brown brook meandering through the wildflowers and half-timbered hamlets. It moved so slowly that stretches of the surface were flecked with lilypads topped by tiny white blossoms. Parting […]

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The Hunt for the Evil Brewmeister

After many oddly wine-centered meals in Germany, I am sure I’ll be for a beer in my future tonight. That’s because I am staying at Burg Veldenstein, the castle on the hill above Neuhaus am Pegnitz, a village of smart little red-rooved houses each painted a different pastel shade—robin’s egg, peach, canary, mint, pink. The lynchpin of the local economy […]

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A Tall Frosty Mug of Real German…Wine?

The Rhine is one of Germany’s wine-producing regions. So was the Mosel, two nights ago. So will be Franconia, two days hence. Sometimes it seems every Teutonic nook and cranny has been declared “one of Germany’s best wine-producing regions.” That is all fine and well as far as it goes, but it means waiters are always trying to foist off […]

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Would You Like Some Pork with That?

Most menus in Germany are suspiciously similar: a half-dozen variations on the schnitzel theme swamped in a creamy mustard sauce, some veal (usually subjected to the same inundation of sauce), a steak or two, venison stew with wild mushrooms, and whatever the local wurstel is. Each dish is accompanied by any of a number of preparations of potato or a […]

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The Bane of the Solo Traveler

I just checked into a hotel installed in the medieval gatehouse of mighty Burg Reichenstein, overlooking the valley of the Rhine River from on high. I was handed a room key, lugged my luggage upstairs, and opened the door to my third parking-lot view in a row. Chalk it up to the old “single rooms suck” law, which is aimed […]

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